Frequently Asked Questions

A: Regular tap water is fine, but bottled, purified, or distilled water is preferred if you have it on hand.

A: This happens because of the very high humidity your slime requires to stay healthy, so fog can form and droplets of water on the walls from spraying the habitat tend to stick around! Use a napkin or cotton swab to wipe the walls clean and/or leave the container lid off for 10-15 minutes as needed to restore your view of your slime.

A: Room temperature is perfect. As low as 65℉ and as high as 85℉ (18 to 30℃) is acceptable for a closed habitat away from direct sunlight.

A: Your slime prefers darkness; in the wild, they mostly stay under logs and leaf litter. In fact, light and a diminishing food supply usually triggers a process called sporulation, however your particular slime is naturally less prone to undergoing this process, so you needn’t worry much about ambient lighting. Keep the habitat away from direct sunlight, including sunlight shining through a window.

A: You are witnessing the process of sporulation! This is a rare but natural occurrence for your particular slime, so enjoy the show. Your slime is transforming itself into fruiting bodies to release spores that can remain dormant for years awaiting favorable conditions. Unlike mold spores, these spores are not dangerous to humans. While the spores produced by your slime in this process may germinate and grow back into a visible slime specimen on their own, this process is very long. Instead of waiting for that, feel free to email us and we will send you a new sleeping slime hibernation capsule to get your slime going again! See the last question of this FAQ for details. There is no need to clean your habitat, just start back at step 1 with the new hibernation capsule when it arrives. Try keeping the habitat further from windows and ambient light sources to decrease the chances of the new specimen sporulating.

A: As long as you are feeding at least 1-2 oat flakes a day (or 2-4 every other day), your slime is getting plenty of food. Overfeeding is a bigger issue because it can encourage contamination; if your slime is leaving food uncovered (either food that was previously covered or food it hasn’t gotten to yet), give it some time to digest and grow before feeding more. As a general rule, wait to feed until all the food in the habitat is fully covered by your slime, and do not exceed three new oats a day.

A: The base of your habitat is coated in a thin hydrogel film to help keep your slime healthy and hydrated. When you receive your kit, the film is dehydrated. After rehydrating it by following the instructions in step 1, you’ll see the thin, shiny film absorb the water and swell. This is what it should look like with proper regular watering. If you see the hydrogel becoming shriveled and cloudy, it needs a little extra water. If you see unabsorbed standing water anywhere you don’t want on the base of the habitat a few hours after watering, spray a bit less water next time or skip watering altogether for a day. You can switch to watering every other day if you continue to see standing water with daily watering. Note that some habitats are designed with reservoirs to collect water in specific areas. Filling these is optional and allows you to experiment with how your pet slime interacts with water. You can fill these either by spraying the surface of the habitat with the spray bottle until they’re full or adding water directly to them with the pipette.

A: Always make sure to close the lid securely and keep the tubes in the base of the habitat tightly plugged with cotton balls. Make sure to have a new container ready for the slime to expand into when it fills its current habitat or be ready to release it outside.

A: While opening the lid may sever the specimen, it will not be harmed! Your slime has incredible abilities of regeneration and fusion, so go ahead and open the lid to feed and water. You’ll see some yellow ooze where the slime split apart, but that is normal and your specimen will fuse back together in a matter of hours. Just make sure to put the lid back on tight once you’re finished so it doesn’t escape!

A: The food provided with your kit is simply regular oat flakes, but they have been sterilized to avoid contamination. If you run out, you can use any plain oats or other grains as a food source (rice, barley, wheat, etc. You can use grains themselves or foods with grains as a base). Optionally, to avoid the risk of contamination, you may boil the food immediately before using it (make sure an adult is supervising!).

A: Yes! Integrating toys and decorations into your habitat can be very exciting and lots of fun! We recommend cleaning items with soap first, then make sure to rinse it thoroughly with water to remove any soap residue. Try placing an oat somewhere on or around the object and watch how your slime interacts with it. When you’re ready to remove it from the habitat, make sure your slime is not on it and simply lift it out and wash it again with soap and water to remove any slime trails your slime may have left on it.

A: Your slime is “biologically immortal”, which means it will continue to thrive and grow as long as it is given proper conditions with enough food and space and no contamination. In practice, this is challenging to achieve (forever is a looonnggg time), but you can expect your pet to stay healthy for quite some time with proper care. It can also be put into dormancy whenever you wish and reawakened at any time.

A: Accidents and mistakes are an inevitable (and essential!) part of all science. If your slime does not emerge and thrive for any reason, we will send you a replacement “Sleeping Sime” hibernation capsule free of charge. Please email us at support@slimeoworlds.com or send us a message via the Contact Us page to request a replacement, and include your name and mailing address.